Tag Archives: fall 2013

Junya’s Step in the Right Direction

Fashion Review Mondays:  Junya Watanabe’s Fall/Winter 2013 Collection

Watch show here>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Oku73aKC-k

For this week’s review, I decided on Junya because I love him and I was really impressed with what he put down the runway for this Fall.
Firstly, on a stylistic note, I love the way he styled the models:  heels that never exceeded three inches, soft clean faces, super unruly unkempt hair (probably just because my hair always looks like that no mater what I do and now I feel I have some high-fashion justification for it)— everything complimented the clothes in just the right way.


    What was most impressive about this collection, in my eyes, were the shapes of all the clothes.  Talk about ground-breaking work— I mean, this collection was anything but safe and anything but boring.  The show starts with these outfits that consist of highly zippered leather jackets paired with knee-length skirts that have a slight high-low hem.  At first, I was like “Hmm, what an odd shape; I’m not even sure that’d really be flattering.”  But as the models walked in them, I realized how fluid the movement of these garments were and how they were actually very flattering, in an odd way.

If you’re watching the show, at about second 0:40, there’s this look that I am crazy about:  this weird leather and plaid-tweed giant sack-jacket thing with that same slight high-low hem.  At first, it just looks like a giant plaid bubble, but once I watched it move with the model, I was like “Oh my gosh, I WANT THAT.”  It’s quite a strangely flattering piece and I actually like how it fits loosely around the hips— my hips need a width hem, so I appreciate this innovative fit.
Shape and fit are SO vital to why this collection is so strong and innovative.  Along with the new silhouette of the “plaid bubble coat,” there are other key details in many of the looks that make them special.  In many of his longer jackets, the top would be done in the zippered leather, while the bottom would be done in another material— often a wool-like fabric— and the seam where the two different materials meet is shaped like a rainbow.  This is genius because this arc-shaped seam perfectly outlines where the hips should be underneath the garment, but the shape is curved in such a way that it really flatters the hip and waist area.  The fit is truly incredible.  It really is the modern take on the drop-waist.  On some of the inversions of this same look, his use of color-blocking really draws attention to all the right places as well; it elongates the wearer and gives such a long, sleek look.

Another aspect of the collection that I simply adore is the use of denim.  At around 1:35 of the show, this incredible look comes out that consists of an immaculately intricate houndstooth-print moto jacket (that is so amazing I really can’t even describe it) paired with these ultra-baggy but somehow ultra-chic boyfriend jeans that have patches all over them, cuffed up over a pair of low turquoise heels.  This look is phenomenal for many reasons.  I love the nod to the 90s, I love the worn-in and comfy fit of the pants, and who couldn’t love a jacket that crisp and chic and perfect.  This look is so many different styles in one, but it really works.

At about 2:40 of the show, there is a coat that really blows my mind.  It is a neutral brown color, which is simple enough to handle all of the details it contains.  It has these unique color cut-outs in darker brown on the upper arm, and then zipper arcs over the hips.  This is astonishing in the world of fashion, because a typical rule of thumb is that no woman really wants to bring more attention to her hips, but these zipper arcs somehow bring the right kind of attention to them.  The loose silhouette of the coat is perfectly balanced with the introduction of the zipper detailing; it gives it its shape and the fit suddenly becomes beautiful.
Another bit of playful spirit as far as fit is concerned occurs at 7:40 of the show, where there are a pair of flowy pants that are so wide-cut that they almost look like a long skirt unless you look closely.  I love them.  (And I mean, just think about how wearable and comfortable they would be).  After this look, another pair of interesting pants come out, which are half-skirt, half-capris; very weird fit but so creatively done that I have to admire them.  What a breath of non-conventional fresh air.
Junya really has always been a true fashion innovator, but this collection seriously highlights what a forward-thinking genius he is.  He’s taken Fall fashion staples like plaid, houndstooth, and leather, and pushed them to be something different, something fresh, and something with a heartbeat of its own.  It’s a truly well-done collection, and I honestly hope to own several pieces from it one day.

Thanks and Creds for the photo stills:



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Christian Siriano’s Amazing Autumn

Fashion Review Mondays: Christian Siriano’s Fall/Winter 2013 Collection
By Olivia of WangGuk


This week, I’m reviewing a collection for the current season: Christian Siriano’s Fall/Winter collection for 2013.

From the start, I was quite impressed with this collection. But really, when I’m honest with myself, I’m always impressed with Christian. He’s just always known who he is and what he’s doing. He’s a master of detail, and this collection showcases that. The taste level was, for the most part, very high and all of the looks were detailed and polished without being over-worked or busy. I loved the collection as a whole— I mean, there were definitely moments when I thought “Well I don’t think I’d ever have the compulsive need to wear that” and others when I thought “Oh my word, I’m going to tear that off the model because I want that in my closet NOW.”

One thing I really loved about this collection was that the models Christian had walking in the show exuded such a powerful, strong woman. Like, she was a badass, you know? A well-dressed, expensive badass. The girls looked polished and sleek in their styling and they walked in a way that said “I don’t know who you are, but I know who I am— and you better just get out of my way.” The girl who is wearing all of these beautiful clothes is strong, confident, tough, and self-sufficient. I liked that. I liked that I felt that just by the way they walked in those clothes— I was able to imagine the girl who would wear all of these pieces, and that is so key in any collection. We always must ask “Who is wearing this?” and “Where is she/he going?”

Another aspect of this show that is particularly noteworthy, and which all the more built the character of this tough, powerful girl is the track Christian decided to play: music by Brad Walsh, featuring mezzo soprano vocalist Ilene Pabon. It was gorgeous in kind of a creepy, eerie, mysterious way— which matches the girl who was being illustrated in the collection. I loved it. It pulled everything together— a perfect choice for the show.

As for design aspects of the collection, there were many things Christian explored and experimented with that I appreciated. As for shape, a traditionally feminine one was what most of the dresses and suits were based on. I notice that Christian often stays with this form— his shapes never really stray from this more traditionally feminine form. When I look at other designers like Thom Browne or Rei Kawakubo or Junya Watanabe, I think that a lot of their design innovation comes to play in terms of shape and fit— these are designers who are always playing with shape and fit and pushing the envelope in terms of new silhouettes. But Christian seems to play around with other elements, such as color or print or material, as in this collection.

I’ve heard many people say “Oh so much black” and “There was finally a little color at one point”— to which, I was kind of always like “Well yeah…like, do you know which season this is?” Yes, there is a lot of black. Yes, there is a lot of neutral golds and browns. It’s Fall. But I love black, so maybe for a person who needs the rainbow as their wardrobe at all times, this collection would be not as wearable. But I loved all the dark looks. That said, one aspect of the collection I appreciated was that he used a color that we don’t typically associate with Fall or Winter: hot fuscia pink. Perhaps there have been others who have employed this loud color as part of their Fall/Winter collections, but for the most part, I feel like I always see red or gold or maybe a bold purple of some kind during Fall. That is why the pink in this collection was so unexpected for me, but it was also refreshing for that reason. I happen to dislike pink quite a bit, and the first time I watched the show, I was like “Ew that color is heinous; what on Earth would posses anyone to wear it?” But I watched the show a couple of times over, and I realized that this color actually adds a lot of necessary dimension to the collection. Plus, all of the dresses in this color were fitted immaculately and looked super hot. So, I was okay with the presence of pink here.

Something I found to be gorgeous was his use of lace and sheer paneling. Many dresses in the collection employed this. The shorter, gold, modernized circle-skirt dress was one of my absolute favorite pieces, and I loved it for many reasons (the color, the modernization of the circle-skirt shape), but the main reason was the balance it contained. The sheer top is completely balanced with the heavier fabric of the bottom skirt part. The dress is perfectly proportioned. The lace becomes the epitome of chic and classic, where if it had been paired with a less-conservative bottom, it would have become tasteless and vulgar quickly.
The black dresses that follow this one (the ones that are I think around minute 8 in the show) are also some of my favorite pieces. The black with the gold detailing is exquisite— I can’t even tell you how beautiful they are. They truly speak for themselves as pieces. I loved the bolero dress; I thought that was very modern and chic and perfect for Fall. I loved the black dress with the gold detail shoulders with the shell of tulle coming out— it reminded me of Bowser from Mario Brothers… only chic haha (this actually was more of a shape innovation, and I loved it for that reason).  All of these black and gold pieces were gorgeously pieced and just perfect, really.

MG_1877           161304419    Christian Siriano, Ready to Wear, Fall Winter, 2013, New York        christian-siriano-autumn-fall-winter-2013-nyfw27
The only part I will say that I did not particularly care for was the closing dress: all sheer lace with strategically-placed pieces of gold lace or stitch detailing that covered up all of the essentials. When I spoke of the gold dress before— the modern sheer circle-skirt one— I had said that the reason it worked was due to the balance. This final dress had none— the whole thing was sheer and I could see the model’s butt-crack (kudos for her walking with still such a strong, confident stride while she mooned the audience). I know that couture isn’t  supposed to be confined by the standards of a ready-to-wear look, but I just couldn’t really even appreciate the dress because of the vast lack of wearability. That aside, oh my word, the detail on the dress is, again, immaculate and Christian’s signature, so for that I congratulate him.

The cohesion and sophistication of this collection were astounding, and anyone who got to see it live is lucky as a duck because I would absolutely LOVE to see Christian’s amazing detail work up close and personal. He’s a genius. He always has been. And this collection is nothing less than incredible.

Video here>>  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNjI-1n_KmA

Still Photo Creds: