Fashion Review Mondays: Junya Watanabe’s Fall/Winter 2013 Collection
Watch show here>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Oku73aKC-k
For this week’s review, I decided on Junya because I love him and I was really impressed with what he put down the runway for this Fall.
Firstly, on a stylistic note, I love the way he styled the models: heels that never exceeded three inches, soft clean faces, super unruly unkempt hair (probably just because my hair always looks like that no mater what I do and now I feel I have some high-fashion justification for it)— everything complimented the clothes in just the right way.
What was most impressive about this collection, in my eyes, were the shapes of all the clothes. Talk about ground-breaking work— I mean, this collection was anything but safe and anything but boring. The show starts with these outfits that consist of highly zippered leather jackets paired with knee-length skirts that have a slight high-low hem. At first, I was like “Hmm, what an odd shape; I’m not even sure that’d really be flattering.” But as the models walked in them, I realized how fluid the movement of these garments were and how they were actually very flattering, in an odd way.
If you’re watching the show, at about second 0:40, there’s this look that I am crazy about: this weird leather and plaid-tweed giant sack-jacket thing with that same slight high-low hem. At first, it just looks like a giant plaid bubble, but once I watched it move with the model, I was like “Oh my gosh, I WANT THAT.” It’s quite a strangely flattering piece and I actually like how it fits loosely around the hips— my hips need a width hem, so I appreciate this innovative fit.
Shape and fit are SO vital to why this collection is so strong and innovative. Along with the new silhouette of the “plaid bubble coat,” there are other key details in many of the looks that make them special. In many of his longer jackets, the top would be done in the zippered leather, while the bottom would be done in another material— often a wool-like fabric— and the seam where the two different materials meet is shaped like a rainbow. This is genius because this arc-shaped seam perfectly outlines where the hips should be underneath the garment, but the shape is curved in such a way that it really flatters the hip and waist area. The fit is truly incredible. It really is the modern take on the drop-waist. On some of the inversions of this same look, his use of color-blocking really draws attention to all the right places as well; it elongates the wearer and gives such a long, sleek look.
Another aspect of the collection that I simply adore is the use of denim. At around 1:35 of the show, this incredible look comes out that consists of an immaculately intricate houndstooth-print moto jacket (that is so amazing I really can’t even describe it) paired with these ultra-baggy but somehow ultra-chic boyfriend jeans that have patches all over them, cuffed up over a pair of low turquoise heels. This look is phenomenal for many reasons. I love the nod to the 90s, I love the worn-in and comfy fit of the pants, and who couldn’t love a jacket that crisp and chic and perfect. This look is so many different styles in one, but it really works.
At about 2:40 of the show, there is a coat that really blows my mind. It is a neutral brown color, which is simple enough to handle all of the details it contains. It has these unique color cut-outs in darker brown on the upper arm, and then zipper arcs over the hips. This is astonishing in the world of fashion, because a typical rule of thumb is that no woman really wants to bring more attention to her hips, but these zipper arcs somehow bring the right kind of attention to them. The loose silhouette of the coat is perfectly balanced with the introduction of the zipper detailing; it gives it its shape and the fit suddenly becomes beautiful.
Another bit of playful spirit as far as fit is concerned occurs at 7:40 of the show, where there are a pair of flowy pants that are so wide-cut that they almost look like a long skirt unless you look closely. I love them. (And I mean, just think about how wearable and comfortable they would be). After this look, another pair of interesting pants come out, which are half-skirt, half-capris; very weird fit but so creatively done that I have to admire them. What a breath of non-conventional fresh air.
Junya really has always been a true fashion innovator, but this collection seriously highlights what a forward-thinking genius he is. He’s taken Fall fashion staples like plaid, houndstooth, and leather, and pushed them to be something different, something fresh, and something with a heartbeat of its own. It’s a truly well-done collection, and I honestly hope to own several pieces from it one day.
Thanks and Creds for the photo stills:
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